For people new to the Blythe hobby, there’s a lot of ideas that they have about Blythe that may be wrong. I know I’ve made some mistakes and I’m sure that other people have made mistakes as well. Some misconceptions are costly (in terms of just time and money) while others are just for your own personal preferences, so you can take what I say with a grain of salt. But these are just five of the more common misconceptions that I think a lot of people going into the Blythe hobby have about these pretty dolls.

Buying a lot of cheap Blythes, because that other one is just really, really expensive.
I’ve seen a lot of people do this. Some people start off buying regular releases of Prima Dollies or Simply dolls because they are meant to be ‘basic’ Blythes for new collectors (and they’re also meant to be mostly stripped down dolls for those who customize the Blythes). Let’s say each doll that you buy is $100 (and, for the most part, Simply and Prima dolls go for around that much, depending on the conversion rate). Let’s say that you buy 5 of these. Awesome, now you have 5 Blythes. You may not love them all, but you have five. But then there’s two Blythes that you really love that are going for ~$250 each. For the same amount of money you spent on five less-loved dolls, you could have gotten the two that you really, really love. It’s worth it to find the doll that you really want and then to get her rather than to get dolls that you may not love as much or a doll that you’re only looking at because of her low price.

Quantity over quality, when it comes to clothing.
I’ve done this plenty of times! In the beginning, I was all about getting a big wardrobe of clothes for my dolls. It didn’t really matter if it all completely fit well or not, but at least my dolls were dressed! I spent a lot of time needing to work on the raw seams with fray check on some of those clothes that I bought though, and sometimes the quality of the material just doesn’t stand up to the very mild abuse that I put it through. I did learn though that sometimes it does take a little bit more money to get something really nice, but it’s well worth it if you consider the time, talent/skill and energy put into crafting a doll dress. If you want to make all your own doll clothing, that’s cool too – but you’d probably want to make sure that the material is something that will last, won’t stain your doll and take your time with making it. After all, you’re the one that needs to put up with your dolls as critics.

eBay is the only place in the world where you can find Blythe.
Wrong! Maybe this was mostly true in the past, but there are a lot of options now. You can buy newer releases of Blythe directly from the Junie Moon webshop. You can also look at the buy/sell/trade forums on boards like This is Blythe and Blythe Kingdom. There is also a Blythe Livejournal community. Some customizers also sell directly off of their own websites or via sites like Etsy. There are even some physical stores that retail Blythe, if you happen to be travelling to a bustling metropolitan in Asia.

Customizing dolls is totally and utterly easy.
Maybe for you it will be! Maybe this mostly just applies to me, because I’m an absolute chicken when it comes customizing my dolls. The most that I’ve done (besides some Kenner restorations) is sleep eyes, gaze lifting and eye chip changes. If you’re inclined to start customizing your doll, be sure to look at posts about how to do it.

There’s some things that I do know though: use chalk pastels (not oil pastels), don’t use cosmetics for humans, if you’re going to dye a doll’s hair you shouldn’t use a pot that you also use for food (and if you did use it for food at one point, never use it for food again!). Oh, and don’t use Gorilla Glue. Every time you use Gorilla Glue on a dolly, it makes a Kenner cry.

Blythe is a great way to invest money.
If you’re looking for investment options, I would like to turn your attention to either real estate or the stock market. Blythe, while lovely and charming, probably isn’t the best way to invest your money if you’re looking for any kind of a relatively quick turn around in terms of value. If you wanted to use Blythe as an investment, you probably should have bought a hundred or so minty Kenners back in 1973 and kept them in a temperature controlled room and just start selling them slowly via eBay. But nowadays, it’s harder to predict which doll will be highly valued as the years go by. Popularity of certain Blythe releases can fluctuates. For a while, one of the cheapest Blythes available was Mademoiselle Rosebud and Pow Wow Poncho (Takara, not ADG) at around $60-70USD. Now they’re a bit more. But it’s hard to predict who will become popular. Blythe does retain her value fairly well, as far as reselling a doll you currently own to get money for something else, but she’s probably not the best way to go if you’re looking for an investment.

Also, even if you invest money into NRFB (never removed from box) Blythes, it’s hard to see if your dolls will be worth more in the future. NRFB Kenners also had similar problems as their out-of-box counterparts. Some Kenners had pelvic cracks, yellowing, frizzy hair – all while in their plastic wrapped boxes.

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What kind of misconceptions did you have about Blythe when you first started in the hobby?

Auctions can be a fantastic way to save money on a doll that you really want. Sometimes they don’t go up as high as the average cost of a doll, and sometimes they got for buckets of dollars more. How do you decide how high to make your maximum bid? What should you take into consideration? What kinds of questions should you ask about that grail dolly? So many things to consider!

About the seller

• Always check the seller’s feedback and read the comments made. Be sure to read not only the neutral and negative feedback but also the positive feedback comments. Take into account how many stars they have for shipping, accuracy of description, etc.
• Has the seller ever sold something so expensive before? How many times have they sold in the past?
• Don’t feel shy about messaging the seller about any questions you may have about the doll. For instance, if the description of the item says that there is a scratch, ask for a more detailed photo if there isn’t one already.

About the item

• Read everything through once. Then read it again. Is it the item that you want?
• How much does the doll/item normally go for? Is it cheaper on Blythe Kingdom or This is Blythe? What are the lowest and highest price points you’ve ever seen for it?
• How much is the shipping charge from the seller’s location to your house? What method are they using? Does the shipping included tracking, delivery confirmation or insurance? Do you need these shipping add-ons? (If you are purchasing a vintage Blythe, I would highly recommend insurance and tracking. Or any Blythe, really.)
• If the shipping method listed does not include signature upon delivery, confirmation, tracking, insurance, etc. and you want these additions, message the seller to as how much it would cost to have these extras tacked on. Take this into account when determining how much you’re willing to spend.

Onto the auction

• So you’ve done your homework by now (I hope), what is the maximum amount of money that you’re willing to spend on this doll? Keep in mind that you also need to pay for shipping. If you are purchasing from outside of your own country, you should also remember that you may incur additional fees or taxes from customs charges. If the maximum amount you’re willing to spend requires you to borrow money or beg for money off of a loved one, please refer to this handy (tongue-in-cheek) chart.
• Keep in mind when the auction ends, set yourself a reminder somewhere that you’ll look (on your phone, alarm on your computer, etc.) for a time before when the auction ends (maybe 30 minutes?).
• Bid your maximum amount. And then go away from the computer. Do not engage in a bidding war – that’s how auctions go higher than a doll is worth or how you end up spending more than you originally planned for. It’s stressful to just sit there and watch the time tick down. It’s also stressful to see others trying to out bid you (or even successfully outbid you). Go away. Wait for an email to see if you’ve either won or lost the auction.

And lastly… Have fun. If you lose an auction, it is not the end of the world. There will be other dolls.

 From Kenner Fever to Cured is a three-part mini series of me detailing my journey from just being feverish with wants of a Kenner Blythe to actually getting my first Kenner, an absolute dream girl. In Part 3, I include a lot of information about what I did to do some restoration work on my Kenner Blythe.

This is what worked for me, if you don’t feel comfortable doing work on your vintage Blythe, please send it to someone with experience restoring the dolls to their fullest potential. I am not a professional Kenner restorer at all, so please take that into account when you read about what I did. Where possible, I reference the source of where I learned these tips from.

I left off part 2 of From Kenner Fever to Cured about my Kenner Blythe’s hair. It smelled and it most certainly needed a wash. Also, what I didn’t mention last time is that when I had gone to thatch her hair, I may have found the old exoskeleton of an insect’s moult. While I love entomology and all that goes on with insects and their habits, that was really gross. And so I needed to clean her hair – immediately.

Washing her hair wasn’t too much of an ordeal compared to when I first washed the hair of my very first Blythe (Sophie – Cappuccino Chat). For starters, my Kenner’s hair was not attached to her head. I just filled the sink up with hot water and put in a little bit of soap in there. There are a lot of people who tell you different things about what to use on doll hair. The most important thing to note is that whatever product you use to clean her hair, it has to be washed out. I don’t care if it’s fabric softener, dish soap or regular liquid hand soap – it needs to be washed out completely. Human shampoos or conditioners will not do much for doll hair because those are for human hair (eg. natural fibre, hair proteins, etc.) while doll hair is plastic (gorgeous and silky feeling, but still plastic).

I just decided on a nice mild baby shampoo because I have it on hand (it was a sample, yay for free cleaning products). It had a light scent and I just cleaned through the doll’s hair with it. I didn’t really work it into her hair, but rather to just get all the hair nice and soaked and then run soapy water through it. The water was a bit dingy afterwards and her hair had more a sheen when it dried, so I would like to think that it somewhat worked! Seeing as how Kenners are nearly 40 years old, that’s a lot of time to collect dust and other grimey things in their long hair.

After rinsing thoroughly, I used a fine-tooth comb to comb through her hair – I start at the ends and work my way up near the scalp. Always comb in small sections at a time, and I hold the hair when I’m combing it so I don’t pull on it. This way I won’t pull out more hair from the doll’s scalp but also you won’t stretch the hair. Stretching the doll’s hair is what causes it to be frizzy because it gets pulled and stretched. When I was done with one section, I put her hair into foam curlers. This is both because a lot of people seem to put their Kenners into curlers and because it was a nice easy way to get the hair out of my way as I worked on the next section.

Tip! You can find foam hair rollers in the beauty section of department stores or at dollar stores. My local dollar store carried them at $1 for 8 rollers and they feel the same as the more expensive ones from department stores. Fine-tooth combs can also be found in both locations. The supplies needed to work on her hair should not cost an arm and a leg!

I’d resigned myself to the fact that she was pretty much going to have to live with the fact that she has frizzy ends. But on the brightside, with her hair combed out, it looked like she had a lot more hair than I originally thought (due to how her hair looked in both auction photos and when I first pulled her out of the box). Her hair was a lot longer and while she did have two bald spots (one due to 3 missing plugs, the other due to a section of scalp that had never been rooted in the factory where she was made), her hair was gorgeous and shinier after getting washed.

On a side note, redhead Kenners will occasionally have discolouration in their hairs that has a slight greenish tinge. Emmalynn is no different – she has slight green in a few of her plugs at the front of her scalp. I like it though, it’s quite pretty. Some redheads will have the greenish discolouration through all of their hair or just part of it. One theory that I’ve read about this greenish discolouration is due to the hair’s exposure to the sun.

After the initial washing, I took her hair out of the curlers and then felt her hair. I really did feel like this could be improved, so I took a microwaveable dish and put some fabric softener (please, if you going to do this, make sure you used something that does not contain any dyes!) and water in it. I microwaved this concoction for 2 minutes on high and then pulled it out. I wanted the water hot, but not boiling. and then I put the scalp into the fabric softener and water mixture and I covered the top of the container to prevent the heat from leaving. I left it like that for more than 30 minutes. Then I went and rinsed the fabric softener out of the scalp and hair as best that I could (using hot water directly from the tap) and set to work combing and putting her hair back into rollers.

Tip! Whatever fabric softener you decide to use, make sure it doesn’t contain any dyes and that it has a scent that you can stand (or use unscented!). If you don’t have liquid fabric softener handy (or if your liquid fabric softener has dyes or a strong smell), I’ve also been known to take fabric softener sheets and put those in water as well. It does work, it’s not as strong compared to using liquid fabric softener though.

With her hair sorted out, I waited until the next day to put a very small amount of water soluble glue onto the thread knots on the inside of her scalp. The brand of glue I used was Aleene’s (the one we all know and love when we swap out eyechips on our Blythes!) and I allowed the glue to dry for several hours before even thinking about handling her scalp again.

At this point, there were only two things left that I wanted to do to fix her up: fix the pelvic seam crack and to open up her head because after finding an insect exoskeleton, I didn’t want to leave her head dirty inside too. Plus I really wanted to give her eyeballs a bit of a cleaning and couldn’t get at some of the parts just from the outside.

Opening up a Kenner’s head isn’t as difficult as it may seem. Once you remove the scalp and hardcap, two more screws are revealed. In total there are four screws holding the two halves of the doll’s head together. Also, remember to unhook the spring if you want to keep it (and to not stretch it out). The screws or spring may be rusty – you can always bring the screws into a hardware store and ask someone to help you find some replacements! And if your doll’s spring is rusty, you can either replace it with a Takara or ADG Blythe’s spring or you can find other replacement options online or locally (I know that Cool Cat carries replacements and that some people have suggested the springs from pens as well).

Kenners can have cracks all over their bodies. Some have cracks in the torso, some have cracks in the pelvis, some have cracks in both places. My Kenner had a crack right along the seam of the pelvis (where the two halves of the mold met during production of the piece). It’s a common place for a crack to occur – the seam is a ‘weak’ spot. in the piece. Other parts of the Kenner’s body can have cracks as well, but I will only be talking about this one as that’s what I’m presented with.

I learned about company called Loctite, which is a brand name, that makes epoxies and glues. I found a particular product called Super Glue All Plastics – 2 Part. It’s designed and is safe for all types of plastics and is a two-part system. I got it at a local hardware store for ~$6+tax (CAD). I had removed my Kenner’s head from the rest of her body when I repaired the crack. Or rather, I had my boyfriend help me repair the crack. My job was to make sure that the pelvic area was clean and had removed the legs (which already pop out anyways -they had been cleaned separately from the rest of her body).

Tip! There are great resources on both on the This Is Blythe and Blythe Kingdom forums. I learned about the Loctite Super Glue for plastics over on TIB on the thread about Kenner cleaning and repair tips. There are a lot of other fantastic tips for cleaning your doll and repairing her to her former glory.

You don’t necessarily need to use this specific product, but whatever glue product that you do use for fixing cracks needs to be safe for use on plastics (specifically, hard plastics – but it’s best to find one that’s safe for all plastics as the glued seam will likely come in contact with the legs of the doll)

The doll pelvis was put into a clamp (cushioned on both sides to prevent marks from the clamp) and then we put the glue into the crack and turned the clamp to push the sides back together again. Always read the instructions of adhesives before using them! It’s supposed to be an instant bond, but I’m a touch paranoid about needing to do this again because of my unwillingness to wait, so she stayed in the clamp for a bit before I took her out and then attempted to push her legs back in. It failed to hold and the crack opened up again. I tried a second attempt of gluing the pelvic crack back together again and left it in for a much longer period of time – the glue failed to hold under the pressure of pushing the leg back into the socket even with putting the plastic into hot water first to made it more pliable.

With  my caliper (calipers are super useful if you’re ever interested in making jewellery, one of my other hobbies) I measured the gap with the legs in. It’s just a smidge over 3mm (but before 4mm). No amount of gluing and clamping is going to make that glue hold. Why? Because different plastics have different shrink rates. They also react differently with the present of things like humidity, elevational pressure, to make a few variables. The plastic of the torso/pelvis and the legs are different. The holes in the pelvis for the legs are smaller than the plastic joint on the legs themselves.

I still have my boyfriend enlisted in helping me out figuring out what to do with the crack – his current mission is to find an epoxy that will work for a Kenner pelvis.

So she’s not completely restored yet, she’s still waiting for that medical miracle to fix that little issue she has with her pelvis. It makes sitting rather uncomfortable, as you can very well imagine. But while we’re waiting for the surgery that’ll fix her right up and make her good as new, she’s still part of the dolly family and I plan on including her in as many Blythe photos as possible (even if she’s currently not on a body).

And this is my gorgeous Emmalynn, a seven-line, side-part redheaded 1972 Kenner Blythe. She’s older than me, sassier than me and I’m utterly in love. (She whispers to me about buying her expensive clothing that’s proportional to her worth, we’re still in negotiations.)

I hope you’ve all enjoyed the three part series of how I went from wanting a Kenner to winning an auction and how I took an expensive doll and restored her the best that I knew how (for now). I will be posting one final post about the restoration process of Emmalynn after I’ve figured out how to fix her body as I really do want to keep her on her original Kenner body. I don’t know when this will be, but I’m hoping it’ll be relatively soon.

Thank you so much to everyone who gave me support both on Twitter and on Flickr as I talked about my restoration process and when I sought out help and counsel for what I was doing.

Treasures For Dollars is a mini-series that is completely focused on things that I actually find (and buy) from dollar stores and other similar stores. It will alternate with Blythe On A Budget articles for the next little while until the finale of the mini-series (at Part 10). I hope you enjoy the series!

I frequent dollar stores often. There’s always something new that they didn’t have last time. I strolled through on November 1st to see if there were any Halloween goods to be had at a discounted price (and they didn’t disappoint! Four items for a dollar, previous price a day or two ago was at a dollar). But there was nothing that I really wanted to get, plus their cute stockings were still at $6 a pair (seriously, six for a pair of stockings that I’d probably get a run in under six wears). But I went down their hair accessories aisle, because that’s where the gems are. I don’t look at the more adult hair accessories because they’re usually larger, darker and not the right scale for Blythe.

I found these excellent little plastic hair elastics. I know non-dolly people use them for the ends of braids or whatnot, but they’re perfect for dolly hair (since they’re small) but also for a quick-fix for loose hips (you put the elastic into the hip joint of where the doll’s leg meets the pelvis to tighten up the joint). And at 750 pieces (I didn’t count…) for a dollar, can you really go wrong?

What’s a good inexpensive dolly-find you discovered recently?